Prism Index


 

Wet Suits

Professional businessmen ride the waves

Written by Azadeh Nashat
Photo by Ron Lewis

Surfing is usually considered a sport for slackers and beach bums. The image of Spicoli from "Fast Times at Ridgemont High" comes to mind. Yet, there is a whole community of surfers who are not just beach bums, but professional business people who have gained a passion for riding waves.

On any day, rain or shine, there are a few suited up surfers paddling around Ocean Beach. These men wake up every morning hoping for a good swell. Before or after work, they dedicate a few hours of their day to the water. Many have traveled the world in search of the perfect wave.

Sitting out in the middle of the ocean waiting for a wave evokes a peaceful feeling. For most surfers, it's a love of the ocean that motivates them to go out on even the coldest of days. It's also a way for them to let go of the stress of a day spent behind a desk.

Jason Lorber, a 26-year-old software sales representative, first started surfing in high school. He tries to surf as much as possible, especially after a hectic day at work.

"Working a corporate job, surfing's a good way for me to go out and release everything and have no worries," says Lorber. "Being out in the water allows your mind and body to just flow together. I enjoy having something to be excited about at the end of a work day."

"There isn't anything quite like it," explains Rico Dell' Osso. "It is very, very special."

Dell' Osso, 41, has owned Cow Hollow Woodworks, an antique-restoration business in the Marina, for five years. The front of the store is full of antique furniture that he is working to restore. His days are spent in the workshop, which sits in the back of the store, or making deliveries. He has been surfing for more than 30 years and isn't planning to stop anytime soon.

"I hope I can do it 'til I die," Dell' Osso says. "I don't see any reason why I should stop now."

As he sits back sipping his tea, Dell' Osso enthusiastically recalls memories of the days when he first learned how to surf. Growing up in Oakland, his family would take vacations to Bolinas every summer. In the summer of 1965, at the age of 10, his father rented him his first surfboard and Dell' Osso quickly gained a passion for the sport.

"I wasn't passionate about anything except surfing," says Dell' Osso remembering back to his teens. "It became a neurotic urge. I knew I had to be there and do it, but didn't know why."

These days, though, it's a bit different. While Dell' Osso's work has become his main focus, surfing still falls right behind. After graduating from college, he worked a few random jobs before becoming an estimator and later owner of the restoration store. Most of his days are spent at the shop, but, if the waves are good, he always makes time to go out to the water.

"It's a source of spiritual awareness," Dell' Osso explains. "It's best when no one else is around.

Many surfers travel around the world to experience different waves. It becomes an adventure and a challenge to see what they can accomplish.

Peter Brandelius, 28, started surfing 10 years ago. He grew up in San Rafael and learned to surf in San Francisco. The owner of Cutting Edge Construction, he has the opportunity to surf at his own convenience.

His passion for the sport has taken him around the world. In the summer of 1995, Brandelius took a two-week trip with some friends to Indonesia, Cambodia and Vietnam. There he explored new waters and waves.

"I traveled through jungles with surfboards on my back to get to secret surf spots," says Brandelius.

Surfers are not all the fearless people that most imagine. As Dell' Osso explains it, surfers have a certain level of fear that they are aware of.

"The fear forces you to know what your limit is," says Dell' Osso.

Joey Valera, a 51-year-old painter, has been surfing for 33 years. A love for the ocean motivates him to go surf almost every day.

"The ocean has a lot of serenity but also a lot of power," says Valera. "It's for everyone and the more people go into it, the more self-realization they have. This gives them more positive energy."

Surfing is a sport that requires a lot of time and dedication. It's unlike other sports because it depends on the currents of the ocean and weather conditions. For surfers, this means that a lot of their time is spent praying for a good swell. When the time is right and the waves are good, there are all kinds of surfers out in the water.

"It's more than just a sport, it's a way of life," says Brandelius. "Once you're hooked, that's it."

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