Standing in a 13th century monastery, Gwyneth Black swirls the dark red liquid in her goblet. With the practiced moves of an expert, she smells its fragrance, brings the glass to her mouth, and waits for that first anticipated drop to hit her tongue.
Almost a year ago, Black began planning a birthday trip that would take her on a tour of the wineries of Burgundy in hopes of tasting the best wines France had to offer.
"I went to France because I wanted a cultural and culinary experience to remember forever," says Black, a graphic artist who designs wine labels. "I went to Burgundy because of an article I read, which reinforced what other people had told me."
With California's famed wine country practically at her back door, she is part of San Francisco's wine-connoisseur set that considers the drink to be the center of the social and epicurean experience.
Many San Franciscans consider wining and dining an affair that demands paying particular attention what touches the palate. For many like Black, savoring the wine is not enough. They feel a need to become more connected with the experience through wine tasting, so they travel to destinations near and distant to taste the celebrated libation.
"I have discriminating tastes, and I am often disappointed in what others consider good wine," says 37-year-old Black, as she sits with an imported Rothman's cigarette dangling between her fingers.
On her journey through Auxerre, Dijon, Avallon and Beaune, she is greeted by miles of newly budding vineyards, intertwined with huge fields of blooming mustard plants that create a checkerboard effect across the vast countryside.
While many of the wineries are housed in old monasteries, some can be found in small, centuries-old villages that have formed cooperatives among its residents to produce and market their own unique wines. Looking out across the lush green fields, visitors are greeted by the sight of castles and small stone cottages built for those who created the first wines from the region. It is a breath-taking picture. If not for the paved roads and telephone lines dotting the countryside, it's easy to imagine having gone back in time 300 years.
"The cellars were as I expected them to be, but the old age made them unusual," says Black. "It was amazing to breathe the dust of ancientness."
The ancient monastery Black visited is in the heart of Burgundy in the town of Beaune, which is home to Caves Des Cordeliers, a local winery. The main building of the monastery is a stone structure that houses a darkened tasting room and a damp candle-lit cellar that holds bottles of wine dating back to 1959.
The proprietor is a man who considers wine tasting serious business. His well rounded stomach is covered by a black apron with the name Caves Des Cordeliers stretched across the front. A pristine white cloth is draped over his left arm as he stands at attention, waiting for tasters to approach him for information on his wine.
"I have a preference for French wine," says Black. "I wouldn't hesitate to pay up to $20 a bottle for wine if I was trying to impress someone who knew something about wines."
Black bought several bottles of wine, got into her car and headed farther south to continue her journey of tasting and buying wines to entertain with back in San Francisco.
"When I entertain, being able to provide a high-quality selection of wine and having my guests bring their own high quality wines is my idea of a perfect social evening," says Black. "I'm a snob about wine."
Black's idea of a social gathering is a wine and cheese tasting party in her fashionably decorated apartment. Friends gather to spend the evening chatting about world politics as Miles Davis and John Coltrane play softly in the background.
"San Francisco has more opportunities for finding better wines than other places," says Black, "mainly because of the proximity of wine country and general income levels and snobbery of the rest of the citizens.
"Most often I'll go to the supermarket for wine because they have a pretty good selection," says Black. "But if I'm looking for something special, I go to Caruso's."
Located in Noe Valley, the quiet, yuppified hamlet where Black lives, Caruso's is a wine store with a limited supply of spirits and beer, but an extensive variety of wines. Steve Kerr, co-owner, is always more than willing to suggest a special wine that will compliment a meal.
"Most of our customers," Kerr says, "put a lot of effort into their meals, so they want quality wine."
Kerr has a theory about why people are drawn to wine. "Our parents were the cocktail generation, but now people realize that wine is a healthier alternative," says Kerr. "People are more educated about wine."
Packing her suitcase for the return trip to San Francisco, Black realizes her wine purchases may exceed the amount she can bring back with her.
"Oh well," Black says. "If they refuse to let me bring my wine in, I'll savor it in front of the customs counter. I did bring my corkscrew with me."
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